This Wednesday a very large swell is expected to arrive and last all day, at heights above 20 ft. This means the Waimea Bay in memory of Eddie Aikau contest is on. Not much can be said that hasn’t already been said but I did want to post a image of the storm that is sending us these waves.
The purple colors are hurricane force winds and the arrows show the direction of the energy. As you can see, Hawaii is in the the perfect location. Hawaii is far enough away to miss the actual storm and all it’s wind, but close enough to get ALL the energy.
If you are interested more in how weather and swell work, a fantastic explanation is already available at surfline.com THE MECHANICS OF WAIMEA BAY is a 26 page graphic explanation of everything you ever wanted to know about how big waves work.